Kurdish History Journal

The archive

Rûn: Kurdish Butter Oil and the Work of Churning

Rûn can mean oil or cooking fat more broadly; Kurdish butter oil is a particular dairy preparation. Cultural accounts and laboratory research document the stages from yogurt and churning to butter, maturation and clarification.

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Kaburga Dolmasî: The Stuffed Lamb Ribs of Amed

Kaburga dolmasî is the stuffed lamb ribs of Amed (Diyarbakır) — lamb ribs filled with spiced rice, almonds, currants, and pine nuts and slow-cooked for hours. The great Kurdish meat-feast of the Feast of Sacrifice and weddings.

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Dûşav: The Grape Molasses of the Kurdish Table

Dûşav is Kurdish grape molasses — fruit juice boiled down into a dark natural sweetener, eaten with tahini as rashî w dûşav. With honey and rose, one of the old sweetnesses of the Kurdish kitchen, made in autumn to last the winter.

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Sirmo: The Wild Garlic of the Kurdish Spring

Sirmo is the wild garlic foraged in the Kurdish mountains of Wan, Hakkari, and Bitlis — one of the first fresh greens of spring, eaten with eggs and in breads, the prized herb of Wan’s herbed cheese, and pickled or dried to keep.

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Zerde: The Golden Saffron Pudding of Newroz

Zerde is the golden saffron rice pudding of Kurdish celebration — made with water not milk, scented with rose water, and served at Newroz, weddings, and festivals. An ancient Mesopotamian sweet at the heart of how Kurds mark their happiest days.

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Darex: The Pearl Mullet of Lake Wan

Darex (the pearl mullet, Alburnus tarichi) is the only fish able to live in Lake Wan’s soda water — a staple of Kurdish villages around the lake, eaten fried or grilled and salted and dried for winter, famous for its salmon-like spawning leap.

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Klêçe: The Kurdish Date Cookie of Eid

Klêçe (kulîçe) is the Kurdish date cookie of Eid — cardamom-scented pastry filled with date paste, baked in big batches and served with tea. Known internationally as Iraqi “kleicha,” this series restores its Kurdish name.

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Meftûne: The Sour Garlic Stew of Amed

Meftûne is the sour garlic stew of Amed (Diyarbakır), the largest Kurdish city — lamb and seasonal vegetables cooked with garlic and sumac-infused water. A heritage dish registered under the Turkish label, with the Kurdish city of Amed behind it.

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Silq û Hêk: Kurdish Chard and Eggs

Silq û hêk — Kurdish chard and eggs — is a homely brunch of wilted chard (silq) topped with poached or fried eggs, served with flatbread. An everyday dish carried into exile in the recipe diaries of displaced Kurdish cooks like chef Pary Baban.

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Avelik: The Wild Dock of the Kurdish Spring

Avelik (evelik) is a wild dock / sorrel foraged across the Kurdish highlands in spring — used in dolma, lentil dishes, and egg dishes, and dried in braids for winter. A foraged green that is also a stored food, completing the Kurdish foraged-greens quartet.

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Qeli: The Confit Meat of Akre

Qeli is the Kurdish confit meat of Akre — fatty lamb braised and preserved sealed in its own fat, then served over rice with a dried-apricot sauce and cooked in cauldrons at Newroz. The meat chapter of the Kurdish winter-preservation tradition.

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Seyran: The Kurdish Mountain Picnic

Seyran is the Kurdish mountain picnic — a beloved tradition, peaking at Newroz, of feasting on the hillsides with dolma, grilled meat, mastaw, bread, and tea brewed over a fire. The 100th article in the series: the mountain as the Kurdish table.

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Şamburek: The Kurdish Meat Hand Pie of Mardin

Şamburek (sham-burek, shamburak) is a Kurdish meat hand pie from Mardin — thin dough folded over spiced minced meat, baked or fried, and eaten warm with ayran or daw. Distinct from kürt böreği, and now a celebrated Kurdish pastry in Jerusalem.

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Çay: Kurdish Tea and the Soul of the Çayxane

Çay — Kurdish tea — is strong sweet black tea served in an istikan, the drink “second only to water.” Tea reached Kurdistan only c. 1895, but the çayxane (teahouse) became a Kurdish civic forum for poets, politics, and storytelling.

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Hingiv: The Wild Mountain Honey of Kurdistan

Hingiv — Kurdish wild mountain honey — is made by bees foraging the zozan highland wildflowers, prized from Sulaimani to Hakkari’s Karakovan log hives and scientifically shown to meet EU standards. A renowned Kurdish food, and a casualty of mountain conflict.

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Terxena: The Kurdish Winter Stew That Begins in Spring

Terxena is a hearty Kurdish winter stew from Iraqi Kurdistan — legumes, walnuts, beets, and meat — named for dried fermented disks of spring greens made months ahead. A word of Kurdish origin and a beloved diaspora comfort food: the preservation calendar in one dish.

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Kope: The Buried Cheese of Kurdistan

Kope is the great aged cheese of Kurdistan — raw sheep’s-milk curd packed into a clay jar (kope) and buried a metre underground to ripen for up to a year. From the ancient Kurdish city of Saqqez; named Kurdish cultural heritage.

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